Leh: A World within a World

India is a treasure house of diverse traditional, geographical and cultural embellishes as reflected in its rich scenic beauty from tough terrains of breathtaking Himalayas to spell bounding beaches of Rameshwaram. It has been a spiritual guru of the world from the time immemorial and is emerging as a popular tourist destination now.

Away from the cities, lives an India where nature is still worshiped, people still live a very simple life; visitors are welcomed with open arms and where it is so easy to be happy!  In the northernmost tip, weaved between the Karakoram and Himalaya mountains, for centuries a vibrant yet compassionate Tibetian- Buddhist Community has existed in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir as the proud epitome of one of the nature’s most harsh displays of beauty, better known as Ladakh. I had the good fortune of visiting this wonderful place in August 2014. 

The Ladakhi economy was traditionally self-sufficient with conventional agriculture and herding till tourism became popular in the late 70s after first accessibility of motor vehicles to this part of the world. Tourists around the world adore it for its unspoiled, authentic and exotic charm.  It is an ideal destination, away from modernization and any kind of disturbance from the outer world. Unfortunately, tourism has the potential of commoditizing its serenity.

All those villages which are frequently visited by tourists are completely changed or are in the process of transformation. For instance, Ladakhi denizens are inherently very hospitable and it was in their culture to invite people into their homes and offer them tea along the lines of an ancient Indian tradition of  “Atithi devo bhavah”, which means that a guest should be treated in the highest regard  like a God. However, having realized the profits which could be made by commercializing traditions and with the encroachment of a materialistic mindset in their attitudes, the tea is no more offered for free unless somebody is really lucky to have an authentic encounter.Even the monks are changing their traditionally austere customs and turning into entrepreneurs by establishing businesses like restaurants, food stalls, shops, hotels etc around sacred monasteries. Also, prayer halls in monasteries are being turned into museums for visitors and an additional fee is charged to show around during special occasions. They now tweak the dates of their traditional festivals to coincide with the tourist season from June to September which traditionally has had no historic connection with their culture whatsoever.  With the advent of tourism, people have become overly ambitious and their simple values and integrity are eroding with time. 

Tourism has its own pros and cons. Every society grows and evolves with time albeit at the loss of authenticity which is carried forward from the past, but expecting it to not change would be utopian and unrealistic. However, I feel that a delicate balance needs to be maintained so that cultural and traditional values are preserved and passed onto the future generations. I am still relishing the memories of one of the best journeys undertaken by me and the wonderful local inhabitants I met on my way. Their emotional state and sense of security is an inspiration for whole human race. Ladakh’s picturesque places have lasted an unforgettable impact on my mind.

Grandmother...

While hearing about awesomeness of grand mothers from somebody made me nostalgic and took me way back in time. Back down memory lane , I started getting recollections from the time I began identifying people to the time I met her last. 

My memories of my grandmother mostly comprise of normal grandmotherly stuff- oil massages in the sun when we were kids, my experiments with her hairstyles, she trying to make us memorize all the hymns and chants she could before we frolicked away, narrating new versions of Ramayana each time, random bed time stories, cooking us yummy treats every once in a while, sneaking Marie Gold biscuits into our rooms when we threw tantrums & went to bed hungry, talking about her hometown back in Pakistan and its abundance in all its splendor as though she left it yesterday, always taking up my side giving full benefit of doubt and exercising her suo motu power to pass all judgments in my favor irrespective of the genesis of the issue.

The most powerful one of these tales was from 1947 when at the age of 30, she carried her 8 year old daughter and 11 month old son, two gold bangles wrapped in couple of bandages along her wrists, one sewing machine (which still flaunts shining tag of “Made in Karachi”) and bunch of essentials in an antique “peti” (still kept in my home in all its glory), all by herself, across the border from Sakhar in Sindh province to Gwalior through the biggest mass migration in human history. She witnessed one of the greatest freedom struggles of all time and then went on to build a home in a new, strange land and I still get goosebumps thinking of those descriptions of real time riches to rags story, changing of fate from a palatial kothi to a refugee camp in matter of a day. From managing Zamindaari in Sindh to starting again from scratch and doing jobs like selling papads and pickles when times demanded, makes her the strongest women in my life. And then it inspires me that my failures and disappointments are nothing in front of her struggle for existence.

She now rests in peace hopefully in a much happier place forgetting her pillow with me which we once used to share. 

Reminiscence of self-discovery from childhood...

When I thought about the good memories from the past, the small pleasures of childhood, the things which made me most happy, all those passions and dreams which were too close to my heart.

Down the memory lane, my mind went back to my teens when I went to an adventure trip from school.

Our camp was in the dense forests of Satpura Range near Pachmarhi in Central India. I was always a competitive and studious child, with the only concern in my life being that I have to come first in my class, anything less than that was just not acceptable. I had never been into sports officially or experienced any adventurous activity in my life till then. For the first time I felt that urge to try adventure and started working out to compete with the most fit people in the school and finally managed to get selected for the troupe, which was originally for only the Bharat Scouts and Guides cadets. This was the more exciting excursion for me ever and an experience of lot of firsts. I had never been out of home before this without my parents around and had a tuff time convincing them to allow me to go. This was the first time of strong persuasion for something I really wanted to do and something in which I strongly believed in. And finally could convince my orthodox, over protective parents to allow me to explore completely another set of life. I realized how stubborn I can be and at the same time being equally rational. I was never an early riser and exercising, which they always asked me to do, was not even in the farthest picture. But to show my dedication, I started getting up early in the morning, running and working out for hours to prove my fitness and at the same time managing my academics equally well. They were left with no other option but to allow me. For the first time I realized that with hard work and right set of attitude every odd could be conquered.

I reached to the National trekking camp by travelling for hours, representing team of my school. It was fun to meet new people from other schools and another first was that I realized that I have a natural knack to interact with new people, I really enjoyed sharing and exchanging experiences and unlike many peers of my age, I did not show a stint of shyness in talking or initiating conversation with people from any set of age group. I always had this thing in back of my mind, that this is going to be an all together new experience for me and I have to make most of it to discover so many things about myself which I have never identified before being only an academically focused student. This was the first time when I was facing the world on my own, without my parents guarding or supervising it. But life was not that easy as I thought when I planned. In one single day from cozy cushioned mattress at home, I was sleeping on the bare floor of our small tent with a bunch of 15 other girls around, the tent had some holes from which water could peep in when it rained. We were in the midst of Jungles near a military camp. And monkeys, peacocks and several other species were roaming with us without fear. 

They seemed to be quite comfortable and welcoming to live with new set of friends being us, but it being first time for many of us, especially me, I couldn’t reciprocate that warmness equally.

It was horrible to notice that a monkey can jump into your tent anytime, snails, spiders, squirrels and many new forms of species can sweep around you whenever they feel like, the unforgettable mosquitoes and their unwanted kisses whole night. Satpura forests are famous for patting and giving perfect breeding ground for all species of malarial mosquitoes.

It did not take me far to realize that my working out sessions were nothing when it comes to getting trained by professional cadres and trainers. Blurring alarm at 5 in the morning to assemble in the central ground for 5 km running and different stretching exercises was the only dream I used to get in night. Because if you get late even by 5 minutes, with the most genuine excuse of longer queue for the bathroom, you won’t be heard and in any case your punishment would be running, running and loads of running. After breakfast, we used to leave for our expedition on mountaineering tracks and it was no sunny day as was procrastinated every morning. The sun seemed to be in deep love with Satpuras. Rock climbing, adventurous targets like crossing some lane with the help of only ropes or tyres and alike, used to be our plan of the day. At times we used to sing songs, folk poems, and chat general stuff in between and that used to be the most fun part of it, when allowed. The day used to end at either our camp or a camp at different locations, and by the time I used to reach my tent, after spurring for 25 kms in the extremely long and tiring day with my defected flat feets, I did not mind to sleep with snails, spiders and monkeys around. Surprisingly, these insects got served in our food as well. This was first of realizing how precious sleep can be and you ought to forget what you are eating when you are genuinely hungry.

Four long days were passed and I realized that I have not spoken to my parents as it was not allowed. With every other thing, I was also managing my expenses with the limited money I had. This was the first of living on own. And certainly it was not at all easy and way beyond than tuff circumstances I had heard of; I was not in a position to complain to anybody, because I myself wanted to experience it. But I was missing my parents, home, delicious food cooked by mom, and my comfortable zone. I was very young and immaturity was attached with my soul. I gave up and decided to run away from the camp. And one night it happened, I left in a single piece night suit knowing nothing where I am heading to. But I just kept running in the lonely dark jungle with light producing spiders and was lost. It was even more frightening. Life was giving me all different set of tuff tastes which I was asking for unknowingly, testing all my strength. I luckily happened to locate a military canteen around and asked an uncle there to help me in calling at my home. I transferred the sense of frightening, I was experiencing to my mother when she asked me where I was and I replied back saying innocently, “I really don’t know mumma”. She was terrified but convinced me to go back to my camp, with the promise that she will be coming tomorrow to pick me up from there. I luckily managed to reach at the time of head count in the camp otherwise would have been expelled.

After I came back, I continuously felt guilty for not standing up to something I myself asked for stubbornly. I was brilliant in everything I did so far, be it academics, cultural activities, debates, etc. But I couldn’t face this new challenge and felt like a loser that I gave up so early and accepted my defeat in front of extreme circumstances. I cannot be that weak. It gave me immense courage and determination from within to take up this challenge and to face it. Despite all newer obstacles ahead, I managed to complete that first trekking camp of longest ten days ever with above distinction grades. And most importantly was gifted with some great friends for life. This was first of accepting challenges in life and live up to them howsoever demanding and excruciating it is.

 I realized that no other lesson would have taught me this much about the crude challenges of life once we are out of our comfort zone and no other experience would have allowed exploring me so much about myself. This helped me at every critical juncture of my life, and helped me to stand true to every decision I took. 

Mark Twain wrote in ‘The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn’ that an adventure can teach someone something significant about not only about themselves; but also about other people and the world in general. The main protagonist Huck has many learning experiences as he travels on his adventure down the Mississippi River. He has experienced and survived great obstacles in his young years, shapes his beliefs and morals when he undergoes a considerable change in mind and heart with the help of his runaway, slave friend, Jim. Huck is an individual at a tie between a set of social breakdowns. His family, the legal system, and the community have all failed to protect Huck and provide a set of beliefs and values that could satisfy him. The sense of independence, moral and intellectual development that he feels through this journey is something I connect with.

My affair with Kgp…;)

It’s almost 1.5 yrs old now, and we are still going around happily! :) Like any other relationship, we also have some disputes at times, some moments of despair but at the same time there are many beautiful memories worth to cherish lifelong, which kgp has surely blessed me with! And, alas this affair is going to last for ever in my heart :).

To start with, the beauty of this campus stole my heart from the day one (So yes, it can be called "love at first sight" ;) ). This lavish greenery, colorful lilies, beautiful sunrise view, awesome night lamps throughout the campus, view of rickshaws and rickshaw waala’s, loads and loads of bicycles, no irritating horns and traffic jams of metros, tikka & tikkawaala, barber and cobbler of tech market servicing their customers beneath peeple tree, working staff in my hostel giving a very pleasant smile at our very first meeting; made me feel as if I have entered into a plot of R.K Narayan’s Malgudi Days.

The memory of one glorified morning walk in the alluring weather with droplets of rain playing hide and seek is deeply intact into my memories. (Thanks to my sweetheart Kalpana and Kgp's ambiance for turning a mere morning walk into such an astounding experience!)

Many a times, I crib that hostel food is bad, life is too slow here, people are lazy with a laid back attitude, professionalism lacks big time but on the other hand, contradicting this, when I go to my current hometown Mumbai (Although I love being there), very soon I start cribbing that life is too fast here, people are racing with crowded locals since morning to evening. There are so many amazing places to visit and enjoy, but the distance, pollution (Air, Water,Noise etc etc) traffic-jams, etc just kills that pleasure. In short, the whole struggle involved in travelling while in Mumbai, reminds me of the simplicity of Kgp and my bicycle: P.

Not just Kgp is simple as a town, the inhabitants are even more simple (I don’t intend towards IIT students here ;D). They are honest, innocent and sweet like mishti doi, just the Bengali pitch is loud to hear at times :).

And my this statement comes after a sample area survey (conducted by me :P ). My targets being the working staff of my hostel ( always showing their concern, “didi aap thik se khaata kyu nahi hai, kaisa aaya tha aur kaisa ho gaya hai” ,after looking to my room, "didi aap shaadi k baad kya karega “ :D :D), receptionist didi, the mess waale dada ( who always smilingly listen to concerns over bad food and calmly replies with only one statement “didi hum kya kare, wo log humko aisa banana ka order diya”), the nariyal paani waale dada, who always ask with a sweet smile, “didi bahut dino baad aaya and often gives a discount to me :P”, the fruit seller and other dada(s) of tech market, dosa waale dada, VS waale dada, cheddis waale dada, watchman dada who obliged us with umbrella once at a very crucial hour, dada in BC Roy, the rickshaw waalas, who never overcharge, etc etc. I was feeling like we have been exported through some time machine from our era to the India in its 50s-60s, which has very recently been bestowed with independence, atleast looking at the locals here, their simple outlook towards life and satisfaction level, I can vouch for that!

Along with these sweet gestures, I also get frustrated because of some unprofessional things happening around, making me say “Kya barbaad gaanv hai yaar, kuch nahi hai yaha, kuch nahi milta hai” and on the other hand, cannot stop smiling when I get touched with the simplicity, innocence and sweetness of the local people. I get confused at times that should I get angry on some incidents and people or should I just laugh over it. I asked one rickshaw waale dada once,

“Me: Dada aap yaha kitne saal se hain?”

Dada: replying with a giggle “jab se paida hua didi, yehi hai”

Me: kuch badla hai itne saalo me yaha?

Dada: Bahar tou nahi didi, waise hi rehta hai hum jaisa humara pehle log rehta tha.

Me: aur campus me?

Dada: "pehile jaada jungle tha…" then with a deep thought…."ab yaha student logo k liye CCD hai.”

I couldn't stop smiling with his innocent replies and can’t forget how happy he was riding his rickshaw, more than that a BMW driver could be!

Seems like globalization, cosmopolitan culture and the cut throat competition of the outside world have not even touched them yet. They are somehow “used to” with the same course of things, same machli bhaat and hence have another level of happiness and satisfaction index. They don’t run behind money and do not believe in putting efforts for improvement. For e.g., Tikka waale dada will never go for renovation, till one “tappar” drops straight on his head :D .

I am trying to have good time in the natural ambiance of kgp amidst all the screwing departmental pressures (which has definitely been touched and shaken with the bad things of the outside world: D).

I hope my beautiful home of memories go stronger in my remaining time with Kgp. The magnificent illu way of celebrating diwali in Kgp, bloated my eye lenses and undoubtedly made it the eighth wonder of the world for me! :) . All such unique features of this oldest and first ever IIT of this country, collectively makes Kgp stand apart from the rest. I would always cherish the invaluable bonds and memories that I made, and all the maggi and poshto that I ate here :P.

They say change is fatal; nothing is permanent in this world of immortals. I believe, contradicting this wise saying, kgp will still be the same even after 20 yrs,(for both good and bad) and we will be here again to witness it. :)

Find your place!

They say there is a brighter side
to every setback you face,
things will go as they have been written
howsoever you grimmace.

Its up to you dear,accept everything with grace,find the traces and get back on race.
otherwise,you wont find any place.

they say,there is almighty sitting there to make you find solace.
but howsoever hard you try to beseech or interrogate,
he answers only in his own unique way.

Its up to you dear,accept everything with grace,find the traces and get back on race.
otherwise,you wont find any place.

life is not a piece of cake,
there is no setted pathway,so be alwz awake
sooner or later,harder or softer way;you follow,
u hav 2 make your own way.
If u have the guts,go & snatch your pricey
otherwise,probably things will no more be lightly,
and it will be difficult to take them nicely.

Its up to you dear,accept everything with grace,find the traces and get back on race.
otherwise,you wont find any place.

Ehsaas...

Tu agar khwaab hai tou mujhe na jagaa
tu agar yaad hai tou mujhe na sataa
tu agar haqiqat hai tou mere saamne aa..

tu agar khushi hai tou mujhse door na ja..
tu agar gam hai tou mujhme samaa ja...
tu agar mohabbat hai tou meri iss choti si duniya par cha jaa...

tu agar jannat hai tou mujhe
bhi apne sang le jaa...
tu agar khuda hai tou tujhe apni banaai iss kaaynaat ka vaasta

tu mujh me mil jaa ya ye hasti hi mita jaa....

(PS: zaada bouncer gaya ho tou sar mat khuja:P)

Gehraaai....

kya sach kya jhoot,
har raah dhundli si lagti hai....
zindagi itni apni hote huae bhi kyun,
itni begaani si lagti hai....
damak ta ujaala ho ya ghor andhera
jab ek samaan sa lagta hai
tab subah shaam ka arth kyun mit--ta sa lagta hai..

kya pratibimb,kya parchaai
agar hain apne vyaktitva ki hi gehraai...
tou insaan kyun saare jag mein
bechain ghumta hai....
kya ullaas kya uphaas
jab na rahe kisi ka vishwaas
tab ant-anant ka bhaav achoota sa lagta hai...
par jeevan k in palo mein bhi,
ishwar aur khud par vishwaas sahaara banta hai....